Dom Perignon Brut, Champagne, 2006
The immediate impression is of the mildness of the pure, airy, bright bouquet. A floral, fruity pastel tone then unfolds and quickly darkens into candied fruit, ripe hay and toasted notes, along with hints of licorice. The wine’s opulence – contained and succulent, round at heart – reveals itself in the mouth. The envelope slides and stretches, and the wine becomes more complex and edgy, silkier than it is creamy. The whole eventually melts into an exquisite bitterness tinged with the briny taste of the sea.